The standard-bearer, which, for many people, defines the classic taste of Champagne. Rich, round, lemony fruit fills the mouth, and there is a refreshing, lightly bitter, yeasty finish of citrus rind. P.G.

There’s plenty of finesse in this smooth-textured Champagne, whose flavors evoke apricot, peach, vanilla pastry and mineral. Racy, with snappy acidity providing energy and driving the flavors to a long conclusion. Drink now through 2012. –BS