Like a Formula 1 race car, the 2007 Cuvee L competes on a level beyond any of our other wines. Brilliantly purple edged and opaque in the glass, swirling the wine with a blip of the accelerator lets out a roar of ripe, super-concentrated black fruits and cedary oak spices - and that's in neutral. Engage 1st then 2nd gear and this blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% Cabernet Franc octane boost is a plusher drive than you'd expect. The fruit is so dense; it's almost like crème de cassis, with cocoa, currant and black truffle. Hit 3rd gear and things suddenly get serious with run-away speed and overwhelming power that is perfectly matched with huge rotors and calipers in the form of thick, fine-grained tannins that provide ample braking and grip through the twisties.