A powerhouse, with verve to the finely cut, racy acidity, showing a sense of finesse and seamless integration of the firm frame. The silky texture carries layer upon layer of toasted brioche, currant and pear pate de fruit flavors, with notes of grated ginger and coconut, cappuccino foam and spun honey. Mineral accents ofsmoke, ground spice and fleur de sel build on the long, echoing finish. Drink now through 2032. From France.—A.N.