The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is impeccable and classy. Ripe red fruits, flowers and minerals are some of the nuances that emerge from this fresh, vibrant wine. The fruit remains incredibly youthful and pure all the way through to the finish. This is a surprisingly supple, fruit-driven style of Riserva from Biondi-Santi, and with time in the glass the reluctant bouquet finally emerges. Some of the explosiveness of the best vintages (such as 2001) is missing, but the wine nevertheless impresses for its finesse and impeccable overall balance. The 2004 Riserva looks to have a long life ahead of it, but it so harmonious that opening a bottle in its youth, while not optimal, is far from infanticide.
Dense and rich, displaying impressive Indian spices, leather and berry character on the nose and palate, with firm tannins that are polished and pretty. This needs time in the bottle, or an hour or two of decanting before serving. The Riserva still holds it own. Best after 2011. 985 cases made.-JS