n 1988, he became the winemaker for white wines, and he began to craft the style for Conundrum, a nontraditional white wine blend that would first be released from the 1989 vintage. The goal for this wine, says Jon, was "full flavored fruit, but also complexity and balance" in a blend designed specifically to pair with the creative dishes being offered by a new generation of chefs.
Jon believes that the five white wine varietals used to make Conundrum allow him great creativity in the multiple choices he makes from vineyard through bottling. His winemaking direction, he says, begins with "real advances in viticulture practices, like new trellising systems, leaf pulling and crop thinning. By increasing our control of sun and air exposure, we get fruit with richer, more concentrated flavor."