A small, family-owned-and-operated Tinazzi estate that has long been a favorite of IWM, Capanna has made a reputation for sensuous Brunellos with fuller bodies and impressive structures. The '06 shows fistfuls of bright red cherries, a sprinkling of cocoa, a dusting of espresso and a fine tannic structure that means this wine needs some cellaring for full enjoyment. Lay it down for a year or two and drink for the next decade and then some.
When all is said and done, Palazzo Desti might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2002 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team, led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano, have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Palazzo Desti was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit, I also tasted a vertical of the estate-s Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old.