When all is said and done, Palazzo Desti might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2002 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team, led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano, have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Palazzo Desti was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit, I also tasted a vertical of the estate-s Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old.