95 Points Wine Advocate: The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is a tighter, darker and ulimtately more inward Brunello than the Rennina. Dark wild cherries, plums, tobacco, licorice, spices and menthol are wrapped around a substantial frame of tannic heft. Ideally the wine needs at least another few years in bottle, but it is impossible to miss the wine’s fabulous sense of poise and harmony. As always, Sugarille is a Brunello that speaks with a distinctly Piedmontese accent. It is a beautiful wine by any measure.
Currently, the Gaja Winery owns 250 acres of vineyards in Piedmont, located in the Barbaresco district (Barbaresco and Treiso) and the Barolo district (Serralunga d'Alba and La Morra). Since its inception, the Gaja Winery has continuously evolved in ways that have always focused on meticulous care of and attention to the quality of its wines.
Angelo Gaja took advantage of the weak 2005 vintage to restructure his offerings from Montalcino. In that vintage Gaja issued one straight Brunello, which consisted of the best fruit from his Rennina and Sugarille vineyards. The goal was to introduce a new label that has now become the entry-level wine from Pieve Santa Restituta. This allows for Gaja to be even more selective with the wines that carry the single vineyard designations. Unfortunately Gaja chose not to present his straight Brunello, but I will report on that wine as soon as I have chance to taste it. In the meantime, readers will want to focus on the Rennina and Sugarille, both of which are superb.